Why are there so few Hunan restaurants? It’s a mystery and a travesty. Every time I go to Henry’s Hunan I’m terrified that my subconscious might have, in hindsight, magnified the level of deliciousness, and that I will inevitably disappointed. It never happens. It’s always more stupidly tasty than I remember. I inevitably leave, waddling, with chili smears and a drunk happy look on my face.
Today was my first visit to the Chinatown location. Obviously a visit to San Francisco’s Chinatown has a lot to do with where to eat. If you’re the bunghole that leads your compatriots into the King of Crappy Frozen Dumplings, well you’ve pretty much ruined the experience for everyone. Thank god for Yelp, you say? Well then, smarty pants, why are Yelpers so ga-ga for House of Nanking? Take a pass on House of Nanking unless you enjoy holding up the wall outside for an hour before eating average dishes. Bee-line for Henry’s instead. Preferably, wear some kind of elastic waistband.
It's a very modest spot. A few laminate tables and barstools downstairs by the kitchen. Go up a few raggedy stairs to the upper level, where your plates rumble upstairs from the chefs via an old, narrow dumbwaiter. They've spent more time on the food than the decor... and it was time well spent.
What to eat:
Spicy Rock Cod: A must-order. Inside the (not greasy) breading is a huge mass of juicy white fish. There is ared, spicy sauce full of pepper seeds all over it. With white rice to cut the spice, it’s perfection. Get this or the Braised Rock Cod. Even if you NEVER order fish. Just this one time. Trust me.
Harvest Pork: Not a diet dish - absolutely amazing. Full of umami and delicious barely- crunchy cabbage.
Hot and Sour Chicken or Beef (or anything): (NOT the same as sweet and sour). This is one of those special Hunan flavors. Lean and full of al-dente carrots. They achieve a true sour flavor in the background, unlike most crappy sweet and sour which is, let’s face it, mostly just sweet and icky.
Shrimp with String Beans: Only if you like salty dishes (black bean sauce on this, I believe?). If nothing else, order because they know how to cook a shrimp to perfection, which is a rare talent to possess.
Orange Chicken: I can’t believe I’m writing the words “Orange Chicken” but if you’re in a group, there’s always ‘that person’ who will insist. And it’s actually pretty delicious and full of fresh citrus. They also exercise artful breading restraint.
For more tips, check out this fan who has reviewed EVERY dish on his site. That's love, my brother.
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